The beds we woke up in compared to the beds we fell asleep in today are vastly different! From APA to Fufu Nikko, we are about to enjoy a stay at an expensive, luxury ryokan in Nikko.
But first, we had to check out of our hotel in Sendai. Alas, Sendai, I feel we barely knew ye. We will definitely have to spend more time here next time to get a better feel of the place. But the concert and shopping was fun! I also enjoyed that Zunda shake. I didn't get around to trying gyu-tan, another specialty, so maybe next time! Oh, don't worry morning-Angie, you will be ending the day with a culinary adventure!
While I was waking up and slowly getting ready, I assigned the already awake Jeff the task of forwarding the bulk of our luggage to our hotel in Tokyo. We've used takkyubin before in Kumamoto at the Mitsui Garden Hotel (where we had the Kumamon room, tee hee!), so we aren't entirely new to the service. According to Jeff, though, the front desk at APA was treating it like they had no clue what was going on. I'll let Jeff describe the experience more:
Picture it, Sendai 2026. A strapping middle-aged man walks confidently up to the counter at the hotel he's staying at. He asks if they offer luggage forwarding, as is described on their website. The staff member, a bald man in his early 20s, pulls one of the all time classic maneuvers: The Mendokusai Brush Off. (Translator's Note: Mendokusai means "it is difficult", a phrase used in Japan to convey that the task can be done, but it will take time and be inconvenient for all involved.) I, being well aware this could take time, hit him with the Daijoubu Counter. He pulled in two other people to assist him with getting the information he needed (despite me providing it to him in writing and confirming the details) before finally telling me that we needed to contact the receiving hotel. I verified with Angie that this was a large hotel and they did not require pre-authorization. Another several minute discussion during which I believe I heard the words "gaikokujin" at least five times. Yes, I am an inconvenient foreigner.
Finally, after all of 35 minutes, they finally filled out the paperwork and took the money. I thanked them and Google Translated a specific thank you (since my command of the Japanese language places me squarely in the 18 to 24 month age range) mentioning that I was thankful they were able to accommodate my lack of Japanese proficiency. As I was walking away, a tourist from else where in Asia came up to the counter and the older worker (who had previously not volunteered to help at all) said in perfect English "Hello and welcome! Are you checking in?".
Dude. Rude. APA Hotels were already on my shit list, but they've just been promoted to the top of the list now. Move over, Chik-fil-A. There's new competition for the Worst Business On Earth.
Luckily it all got done and paid for and we won't have to lug around a large suitcase and our backpacks. So armed with two changes of clothes and our toiletries and Every Day Bag, we had breakfast at...you'll never guess.... Cafe Gusto!! LOL! I think they need to just sponsor our trip. They have breakfast items for cheap and near the station, so we both had a pancake and hard boiled egg.
We made it to our shinkansen in plenty of time and the trip from Sendai to Utsunomiya was only an hour and 15 minutes. No fancy bento as we just had breakfast, but we did finish off some delicious anko and butter cookies I bought the other day.
From Utsunomiya we took a 40 minute train to Nikko station. As soon as we got off the Shinkansen we were no longer the only western gaijin, and upon entering Nikko, the percentage of gaijin to local spiked up to about 10%! But we were the only ones on our bus from the station to get off at the bus stop right in front of FUFU Nikko! Ha! And honestly, I have only seen about 3 other westerners here.
We were a little early for check in, about 20 minutes, but reception was SO nice and our concierge, Sakura, was really nice! She asked us about our trip and where we've been and what we've enjoyed and was so sweet and excited about our answers. She served us tea while we waited and we relaxed (okay, we couldn't relax because this place is FANCY and EXPENSIVE and we are very much out of our element) in the lounge that faced out towards a small garden and then an expanse of forest. It's very isolated but only a 20 minute walk (or quick bus ride) to Toshogu Shrine.
Sakura then showed us around the lounge, where the shop is, where we'd be eating dinner. Speaking of, she made us reservations for what time we wanted to eat dinner and breakfast and even got us an exclusive spot for the special teppanyaki dinner! There are only four places and the head chef and his apprentice make everything is a multi-course gourmet meal. Also, this ryokan has received two Michelin Keys (like the star for restaurants, but for hotels) for the past two years!
Jeff: Our room is bananas. The bathroom alone is larger than the last hotel room we stayed at in Sendai. Let's go through the features:
- In-room onsen bath with rainfall shower? Check.
- The comfiest beds so far on this trip? Check.
- 24/7 Butler/Concierge line? Check.
- Hotel-wear so that you can wear something comfortable to dinner after the long onsen soak? Check.
- Local hikers wandering through the woods behind the hotel, looking at you like you're a Victorian ghost when you wave at them? Check. [Edit: This literally happened while I was writing today's blog.]
We spent a few hours decompressing in the hotel room, luxuriating in the onsen, and allowing ourselves the opportunity to just not... do... anything. It was lovely.
Dinner was a lesson on the class divide in society, because I have never experienced such service and food quality in my entire life.
Eight. Courses. All except the dessert prepared directly in front of us.
I'm gonna level with y'all. I had no idea what half of those were, and still don't really know what several of them are. Some of it was a bit of a struggle, and some I wasn't able to eat at all. But that's gonna happen sometimes.
After dinner, it was nearly 10pm, so we were off to bed. Gotta get prepared for another day of luxury and temples and lakes? Definitely lakes.
I don't think I can top any of this when it comes to birthday splurges! Best 2-days-before-my-birthday meal ever!! And we are so very "westsiders sticking out like sore thumbs at a fancy eastside establishment" here. Time to go enjoy some of Nikko, a place not far from Tokyo that has been recommended to me and I have wanted to go to for a long time now. See you later!
Oh! While I'm typing this at the little table by the window, we have had the windows open and I love hearing the sounds of the little frogs at night and then the black kites and other birds during the day! We can also hear the splashes and conversations of the people in the public onsen nearby and there seems to be a rather loud and splashy teen in there right now LOL.
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